Shoptart
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Hooked: Pierre Hardy
If cobbler extraordinaire Pierre Hardy’s new spring line is any indication, it’s hip to be square again. Inspired by the regularity of Moroccan tiling and the line drawings of Sol Le Witt, he raises the humble quadrilateral to the height of fashion with his new Cube Perspective collection of graphic footwear and accessories in coated canvas with leather accents. From bags and sneakers to laptop and iPhone cases, the line is a cross between Rudi Gernreich, M.C. Escher and a checkerboard. To celebrate the launch during the Paris collections, Hardy commissioned artist Tal Isaac Haddad to create an installation in homage to the square, drawing fashion’s finest to the Palais du Bourbon shop, including Rick Owens and L’Wren Scott. Our picks are the sneakers that re-envision the classic Hardy shape with a mod twist, a running start on fall’s romance with the sixties.
A Store Is Born
Spring is in the air, bringing goodies from two Hint favorites. First off, Robert Geller has teamid up with Greg Armas of Assembly for The Key Shop, a temporary store at 129 Rivington. We know what you’re thinking: New York needs another pop-up shop like the LES needs another hipster in baggy skinnies. True, but far from peddling random trinkets no one needs (we won't name names), the collaboration offers exclusive pieces from Robbie's spring collection, hand-picked by the man himself, as well as limited-edition items created just for the occasion, as well as a selection of jewelry, books and other rare items. Also look for a series of special programs, such as tutorials on crafting the perfect boutonnière (a flower worn on a man's lapel) and mixing exotic cocktails. Imagine a dapper community center, minus all the oldies, but with some of the same eyewear. Through April 15.
On the eve of his women's debut, Damir Doma is celebrating another landmark, the launch of his new diffusion line, Silent, which hits stores this week. What T by Alexander Wang is to slouchy tomgirls, Silent is to conceptual goths. The assortment of drapey, twisted basics in a muted, almost morose, color palette are perfect for layering with Doma’s complex outerwear, or just as good on their own. They come with a much friendlier price, too, so no need to hock all your Siouxsie and the Banshees memorabilia. The line also includes a series of geometric carrying cases, wallets and sneakers in luxurious lambskin, for roaming the urban landscape like a modern day nomad. Available at oki-ni in London.
Hooked: Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci has distilled his formula for fashion knockouts to a science, an unmistakable sensibility that, for men, took a few detours this season, namely the souks of Marrakesh and the basketball courts of Delancey Street. Thus, a musky mix of Latin Papi, kaffiyeh prints and loose sarouel basketball shorts. To spike the look further, Tisci produced a mini-line of men's jewelry in pale Moroccan gold. Sleek or studded, and worn in bulk, the two rings are the modern alternative to those old-skool brass knuckles—and pack a better visual punch. Hock what you can to get a few. No word yet if full grills are forthcoming. $325 - $355 at Barneys New York
Shop Hopping
You heard it here first: the collaboration between Atelier NY and YSL's Stefano Pilati. Now we have more images from the much-anticipated capsule collection, due in a few short weeks. We don’t expect anything to really last on the shelves, but still, we're calling dibs on the oversized bomber, on account of breaking the news and all... One of the highlights out of London Fashion Week comes courtesy of B Store. Following its men's debut last season, the cult boutique is presenting its first proper women's collection, designed by Natascha Stolle and hitting stores later this year. The Yank, Saint Martins' grad and protégé of Peter Jensen has further articulated the store's boxy nonchalance, but with a feminine eye... It might still feel like the dead of winter, but Marc Jacobs is already in full bloom, sprouting a veritable garden of outposts. First up, a palatial space in the Windy City at the base of the Elysian, a luxury tower that only vaguely sounds like a retirement home. But there’s nothing geriatric about the sleek art deco set-up, the perfect backdrop for spring’s frothy offerings, which, come to think of it, do have a Nurse Betty tinge. Keep an eye out for new spaces in Mexico City, Singapore and Hong Kong… A typically low-key Stella McCartney is going a bit decadent for her latest boutique, taking over an 18th-century building in Milan. Inside, zen-like ceramic tiles and recycled felt panels speak to her eco-friendly, animal-loving ways—quite the feat in a city sustained on a regular diet of animal pelts and exotic skins. One of McCartney’s largest outlets to date, the store will stock the full collection, skincare and Adidas lines... Never short of a dance partner, Opening Ceremony dropped into San Francisco for the weekend to celebrate its latest romp, a corduroy collaboration with Levi’s. The nostalgic and sonorous fabric provided the summer-time inspiration for Ryan McGinley's campaign imagery. Available at Levi’s, SF and Openingceremony.com…
Hooked: Jil Sander
Stoic though they may be, even minimalist labels have souls. That includes Jil Sander, which is breaking its you-will-be-in-awe-of-me veneer for Valentine's Day. The new Soul Collection is an uncharacteristically romantic lapse in the form of softly shaped unisex rings to share over chocolate-covered strawberries and satin sheets. The architectural design (it is Sander, after all) is like a cross between a 70s mood ring and Jeff Koons' Rabbit, with a little Bauhaus thrown in. The result is both exacting and whimsical. To add to the fun, each silver piece comes with an enamel accent available in five colors. Our favorite, of course, is hot pink. $525, exclusively at Jilsander.com
Hooked: Cutler & Gross x Erdem
Around this time each year, we begin to wonder if we’ll ever see the sun again, much less feel its life-giving rays hit our pasty, wind-ravaged skin. But rest assured, spring bloom is just around the corner and, with it, Erdem’s much-anticipated sunglass collaboration with famed London opticians and eyewear-makers Cutler & Gross. Inspired by old-timey Japanese woodcuts, the single round style—so au courant!—is available in five flavors, from classic black and tortoise to black lace and neutral stone, each handmade. But our favorite is the Kyoto print, so packed with rainbow colors you'll think you're zenning out in a Skittles commercial. $450 at Cutler & Gross in the UK.
A Store Is Born: Celine
After only a couple seasons at Celine, Phoebe Philo has not only revitalized the label, she’s practically reduced the fashion set to fiending addicts. Philo’s magic, which she molded into shape at Chloé, is conjured through a chic austerity, not the usual “re-imagining of classics” schtick, so much so we might need a new name. Eternals? (Okay, we're still working on it.) To hold over its many Philo-philes, Celine has launched a temporary Paris store (4, rue François) prior to the grand opening of its new flagship (38, avenue Montaigne). The space has been stripped to a bare minimum—peeled walls, exposed air ducts, unfinished displays—like a cross between a guerilla pop-up and a really sexy crack den. But we imagine few will even notice as they dive for supple leathers and camels.
Shop Hopping
We’re starting the year off by returning to our roots, reconnecting with the fashion fringe like a ponytail in Avatar. After all, vulgar signs of conspicuous consumption and advanced capitalism are sooo last decade. First off, there’s Ra—not the Egyptian god, but a new Belgian concept store (which is somewhat redundant, we know). The visionary emporium is the brainchild of Romain Brau and Anna Kushnerova, two Antwerp Royal Academy grads devoted to promoting emerging talent alongside established pioneers. The sprawling space carries Gareth Pugh and Giles, alongside b Store, Henrik Vibskov and Damir Doma, as well as some handpicked gems from the outer reaches. The interior design is suitably whimsical with Middle Earth-like touches, among them a roof garden and a thatched-roof indoor hut designed by Mathieu Lehanneur. There’s also a gallery space hosting an array of site-specific projects, exhibitions, installations and performances. For Paris men's week, the store will introduce emerging talents Daniel Andersen, Icaro Ibanez and Lliure Briz… Just a stone’s throw away in neighboring Brussels, the shop/gallery hybrid Hunting and Collecting is intent on reviving our inner hunter and gatherer, with a slightly more rustic selection of goodies. Survival of the fittest will ensure hand-picked finds from Natascha Stone, Superfine, Anntian, Patrik Ervell and Cosmic Wonder. With a constantly rotating selection of men’s, women’s and even tots, the store will keep you coming back for seconds when it throws open its doors at the end of the month… Finally, the Los Angeles-based Them Atelier, which rethinks denim from the ground up, scrapping unnecessary embellishments along with hefty price tags. The Echo Park duo produces limited quantities of their streamlined designs (available in New York at Assembly NY and in L.A. at Church) at wallet-friendly prices, clearly the highest form of evolution.
Hooked: ffiXXed
In the grand tradition of brainy fashion-art collectives, ffiXXed comes to you with a cryptic moniker, suggesting tricked-out garments that practically require a degree in semiotics to be deciphered. But contrary to expectations, this latest partnership of art and commerce—the brainchild of Australians Kain Picken and Fiona Lau, now based in New York—yields some covetable and highly wearable pieces.
Of course, with some heavy-duty art-world cred (Kain also works as a video artist and sculptor, while Fiona held a stint at Bless), the two couldn’t resist a few whoppers, i.e. Mulilayered Parallex Wrap and Unseen Utopias, the title of the spring collection. But our favorite nod to conceptualism has to be the simple and chic Bookhanger Neck Chain. The crafty accessory offers a deep drapeage that works not only for storing books—perhaps a thumbed philosophical edition of Adorno, US Weekly or other knick-knackery—but also doubles as whimsical jewelry. You’re bound to find a clever use for it, and feel all the smarter for doing so.
Shop Hopping
So you're kicking yourself for leaving shopping to the last minute, again, but there are still lots of goodies left on the holiday platter. For the perennial downtown girl on your list, choose from a selection of holiday treats from Alexander Wang, including a cashmere beanie and hoodie scarf. A union of luxury and grunge, they're modestly priced (sort of), which means you can also snap one up for yourself… If you’ve waited this long to start shopping, a couple more days won't hurt. Especially since Target won't unleash its Rodarte collection until Sunday, featuring simple yet totally worthy versions of the girls' signatures—lacy leggings, X-ray prints—and at a microscopic fraction of the cost... For the fancier lady, Valentino has created an haute couture T-shirt appliquéd with an Orchid print for Colette. The limited-edition piece will be available during Couture Week in January, but you can pre-order now. Or pick something out from Colette's White Crystal Christmas collection with Swarovski. Highlights include a Kuntzel + Deygas candle for Diptyque, Medicom Toy Be@rbricks, a pair of Adidas Wings by Jeremy Scott and even a Quiksilver surfboard… And finally, something for the boys, with the release of Nike Sportswear's Destroyer jacket in honor of New York City, available in classic leather letterman or swankier satin. Exclusively at Nike's Soho store, 21 Mercer St.
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