Shoptart
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Hooked: Cutler & Gross x Erdem
Around this time each year, we begin to wonder if we’ll ever see the sun again, much less feel its life-giving rays hit our pasty, wind-ravaged skin. But rest assured, spring bloom is just around the corner and, with it, Erdem’s much-anticipated sunglass collaboration with famed London opticians and eyewear-makers Cutler & Gross. Inspired by old-timey Japanese woodcuts, the single round style—so au courant!—is available in five flavors, from classic black and tortoise to black lace and neutral stone, each handmade. But our favorite is the Kyoto print, so packed with rainbow colors you'll think you're zenning out in a Skittles commercial. $450 at Cutler & Gross in the UK.
A Store Is Born: Celine
After only a couple seasons at Celine, Phoebe Philo has not only revitalized the label, she’s practically reduced the fashion set to fiending addicts. Philo’s magic, which she molded into shape at Chloé, is conjured through a chic austerity, not the usual “re-imagining of classics” schtick, so much so we might need a new name. Eternals? (Okay, we're still working on it.) To hold over its many Philo-philes, Celine has launched a temporary Paris store (4, rue François) prior to the grand opening of its new flagship (38, avenue Montaigne). The space has been stripped to a bare minimum—peeled walls, exposed air ducts, unfinished displays—like a cross between a guerilla pop-up and a really sexy crack den. But we imagine few will even notice as they dive for supple leathers and camels.
Shop Hopping
We’re starting the year off by returning to our roots, reconnecting with the fashion fringe like a ponytail in Avatar. After all, vulgar signs of conspicuous consumption and advanced capitalism are sooo last decade. First off, there’s Ra—not the Egyptian god, but a new Belgian concept store (which is somewhat redundant, we know). The visionary emporium is the brainchild of Romain Brau and Anna Kushnerova, two Antwerp Royal Academy grads devoted to promoting emerging talent alongside established pioneers. The sprawling space carries Gareth Pugh and Giles, alongside b Store, Henrik Vibskov and Damir Doma, as well as some handpicked gems from the outer reaches. The interior design is suitably whimsical with Middle Earth-like touches, among them a roof garden and a thatched-roof indoor hut designed by Mathieu Lehanneur. There’s also a gallery space hosting an array of site-specific projects, exhibitions, installations and performances. For Paris men's week, the store will introduce emerging talents Daniel Andersen, Icaro Ibanez and Lliure Briz… Just a stone’s throw away in neighboring Brussels, the shop/gallery hybrid Hunting and Collecting is intent on reviving our inner hunter and gatherer, with a slightly more rustic selection of goodies. Survival of the fittest will ensure hand-picked finds from Natascha Stone, Superfine, Anntian, Patrik Ervell and Cosmic Wonder. With a constantly rotating selection of men’s, women’s and even tots, the store will keep you coming back for seconds when it throws open its doors at the end of the month… Finally, the Los Angeles-based Them Atelier, which rethinks denim from the ground up, scrapping unnecessary embellishments along with hefty price tags. The Echo Park duo produces limited quantities of their streamlined designs (available in New York at Assembly NY and in L.A. at Church) at wallet-friendly prices, clearly the highest form of evolution.
Hooked: ffiXXed
In the grand tradition of brainy fashion-art collectives, ffiXXed comes to you with a cryptic moniker, suggesting tricked-out garments that practically require a degree in semiotics to be deciphered. But contrary to expectations, this latest partnership of art and commerce—the brainchild of Australians Kain Picken and Fiona Lau, now based in New York—yields some covetable and highly wearable pieces.
Of course, with some heavy-duty art-world cred (Kain also works as a video artist and sculptor, while Fiona held a stint at Bless), the two couldn’t resist a few whoppers, i.e. Mulilayered Parallex Wrap and Unseen Utopias, the title of the spring collection. But our favorite nod to conceptualism has to be the simple and chic Bookhanger Neck Chain. The crafty accessory offers a deep drapeage that works not only for storing books—perhaps a thumbed philosophical edition of Adorno, US Weekly or other knick-knackery—but also doubles as whimsical jewelry. You’re bound to find a clever use for it, and feel all the smarter for doing so.
Shop Hopping
So you're kicking yourself for leaving shopping to the last minute, again, but there are still lots of goodies left on the holiday platter. For the perennial downtown girl on your list, choose from a selection of holiday treats from Alexander Wang, including a cashmere beanie and hoodie scarf. A union of luxury and grunge, they're modestly priced (sort of), which means you can also snap one up for yourself… If you’ve waited this long to start shopping, a couple more days won't hurt. Especially since Target won't unleash its Rodarte collection until Sunday, featuring simple yet totally worthy versions of the girls' signatures—lacy leggings, X-ray prints—and at a microscopic fraction of the cost... For the fancier lady, Valentino has created an haute couture T-shirt appliquéd with an Orchid print for Colette. The limited-edition piece will be available during Couture Week in January, but you can pre-order now. Or pick something out from Colette's White Crystal Christmas collection with Swarovski. Highlights include a Kuntzel + Deygas candle for Diptyque, Medicom Toy Be@rbricks, a pair of Adidas Wings by Jeremy Scott and even a Quiksilver surfboard… And finally, something for the boys, with the release of Nike Sportswear's Destroyer jacket in honor of New York City, available in classic leather letterman or swankier satin. Exclusively at Nike's Soho store, 21 Mercer St.
Hooked: Tom Binns
We know what you’re thinking. Has it really come to endorsing movie merchandise? But Tim Burton’s remake of the Disney classic Alice In Wonderland isn't your average holiday kiddie fare. And it’s already drawing its fair share of fashion heavyweights, such as Printemps enlisting Haider Ackermann, Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester (among others) to envision new costumes for a modern-day Alice.
But our favorite is the bauble collection from Tom Binns. The Mad Hatter of jewelry, who isn't exactly known for minimalism, will produce a limited edition of pieces inspired by the film, like this broken teapot necklace in porcelain, which merges Binns' punk sensibility with Lewis Carroll’s Edwardian whimsy. Plus, you won't even notice if you break it. $1,000 - $15,000 at Tom Binns, 41 Perry Street, New York, 917-475-1412.
Shop Hopping
We’re hard-pressed to define New Zealand fashion (although we're pretty sure it doesn't involve UGGs, unlike their Aussie neighbors—phew!), but we’re going to assume that Children of Vision is making it better. Based in Auckland, the concept store is a veritable portal to new dimensions, including the strange and wondrous worlds of Bernhard Willhelm, Cassette Playa and Peter Jensen. You’ll also find under-the-radar Australian faves like Trust Fun and TV. But here's the clincher: they just launched a new online shop with free international shipping until Christmas (on orders $100 NZD and up)… Chanel is jumping on the Orient Express, so to speak, debuting a boutique in the heart of Shanghai on Monday. Designed by our favorite leather-daddy architect, Peter Marino, the space is inspired by Mademoiselle’s Chinoiserie trinkets—but more Wong Kar Wai than The Last Emperor. Karl Lagerfeld himself will be in the city when he presents the latest Métiers d’Art collection later this week… It’s getting nippy out; all the more reason to keep those naughty bits nice and cozy. Sonia Rykiel is lending a helping hand, unveiling her much anticipated lingerie collection for H&M on Saturday. The line is brimming with flirty underthings crafted with her inimitable Parisian touch. In a first, the collection will also be stocked at Rykiel boutiques, giving you the unprecedented choice of being trampled by unruly masses or a selective clientele… We know what you’re thinking: not another outpost for L.A. hipsters to dig for vintage eyeglass frames. But the latest comes with enviable pedigree. A. Kinney Court is the brainchild of Garret Leight, son of Larry Leight, founder of Oliver People’s. Nestled in West L.A., the new boutique boasts an enviable array of rare styles, including a hefty selection from the Oliver People’s archive, like round and clip-on varieties (in original packaging, no less). We say bite the bullet and brave the hipster hordes... Just in time for Christmas, the kids at DobeDo in London are launching their second series of specially commissioned tees by photographers, this time showcasing Juergen Teller, David Sims, Jason Evans, Naima Karlsson and Nigel Shafran. And what a deal: all five for just 100 quid.
Hooked: Karl Lagerfeld for Ruby
If you’ve seen Lagerfeld Confidential, you know that Karl is never one to shy away from a motocross look—Sons of Anarchy via Chrome Hearts and leather pants, with the chopper on the side, thanks. So it comes as no surprise that he's teamed up with Les Ateliers Ruby for the fourth installment of their limited-edition helmet series.
Following Maison Martin Margiela’s artful defacements, Karl is giving the protective headgear the ultra-luxe makeover. First appearing on Karl's runway for fall, multiple versions are finally hitting stores, including a lady-like helmet in black and white tweed (a subtle nod to Chanel) and a couture-ish one embroidered in pearls. But the most obscenely luxurious headdress has to be the one covered in lustrous black mink—part urban barbarian, part futurist warrior.
€1200 - €4545 at Colette and select retailers in December. With only 12 made, rest assured no one else will ride up with one at your local biker bar.
A Store Is Born: Chanel
Before the re-opening of the Chanel boutique in San Francisco, rumors surfaced that Karl Lagerfeld himself would grace the city with his presence. The buzz only escalated with reports of alleged sightings. With all the leather bars in the area, who can be sure? But alas, no Karl, although we weren’t completely disappointed as architect and longtime Chanel collaborator Peter Marino did arrive—and in full leather regalia, like Al Pacino in Cruising. We’re not sure Mademoiselle would have approved, but then, she never did shy away from a butch look, and surely chaps and a leather cap are black-tie equivalents in the city by the bay.
Otherwise, the new boutique is the picture of Coco propriety, unfolding as a clever dialogue between the house’s blue-blood heritage and its hard-edged future. Coco versus Karl. Notable additions include hand-pleated silk panels backlit by LED screens, a new upstairs shoe salon, and what’s described as a “Hand Bag Bar” (perhaps one of Peter's cheeky ideas), where clients can get cruisy with the latest reinvention of the quilted classic. In present company, the black patent leather and chain version couldn’t help but look a little sinister.
The fete spilled onto a tented-off Maiden Lane, with a temporary exhibition of Chanel couture gowns flown in for the occasion. San Francisco society turned out in hordes, but only a select few embraced the impromptu leather theme. We admit we would’ve loved to see the dapper mayor outfitted in a studded leather harness, but instead he was demurely accessorized with his blushing bride in equally blushing Chanel resort.
In a nod to pre-recession excess, The Misshapes were also flown in to provide a soundtrack to a largely oblivious crowd. Tucked into a corner, they may have looked a little bored, but seemed reasonably entertained by a groupie who was a dead ringer for Chuck Bass. Talk about life imitating art. Asked for her thoughts, Leigh Lezark effused, “I absolutely love Karl! He’s a genius! Everything he touches he transforms, from fashion to photography to art!” And impressions of San Francisco? She smiled demurely: “We do as we’re told.” We do love a bit of discipline.
Hooked: Maison Martin Margiela x Michael Stipe
There was a reason Michael Stipe couldn't be spotted at the Paris shows sans his Margiela mono-shield (including after hours at Le Baron). It turns out the R.E.M. frontman had been in cahoots with the elusive triple Ms, putting his arty proclivities to good use. We give you the Maison Martin Margiela x Michael Stipe collaboration, an inspired union of conceptual rigor and general weirdness titrated down to one little microcassette cast in sterling silver.
Continuing where Stipes’ first sculptures (his cast bronze Polaroids, exhibited in New York at Rogan) left off, the piece is part accessory, part object d’art, and comes equipped with an unraveled tape that serves as a chain. Yet we’re not entirely sure of the actual function of the mysterious little trinket. Is it a necklace? Bracelet? Knuckle duster? Eyepatch? Whatever, we love it. And aren’t questions the domain of vulgar dilettantes? We say art for art's sake! But start plotting now, since only a limited edition of 199 will be available at Margiela boutiques and select retailers.
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